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Pedaling Through Burgundy Cookbook

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Title: Pedaling Through Burgundy Cookbook
by Sarah Leah Chase, Cathy Brear
ISBN: 1-56305-359-4
Publisher: Workman Publishing Company
Pub. Date: December, 1995
Format: Paperback
Volumes: 1
List Price(USD): $14.95
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Average Customer Rating: 3.33 (3 reviews)

Customer Reviews

Rating: 4
Summary: Nice Twists on Traditional French Recipes
Comment: Sarah Leah Chase is my favorite cookbook author, and while this isn't her best effort (Nantucket Open House Cookbook is *essential* for anyone who loves food), it contains plenty of excellent French provincial-inspired recipes while avoiding the stodginess of that traditional fare. Chase uses French cooking standbys, butter and cream, along with Burgundian ingredients like Dijon mustard, Chablis and red Burgundy wines. But she also spices things up with a liberal use of Creme de Cassis--the recipe for Candied Shallot and Walnut Croutes is worth the price of the book alone. Other outstanding recipes include one for Baked Oysters, a lovely Pain d'Epices and Potato Gratin Dijonnaise. If the book has a weakness, it's probably in the meat dishes. Most are pretty similar to recipes found in other French Bistro or Americanized French cookbooks. But this is still a very worthy, not to mention beautiful looking, cookbook that belongs on the pantry shelf of any serious cook or cookbook aficionado.

Rating: 4
Summary: How much you like this depends on what you are looking for
Comment: I agree with the reviewer below: the author takes frequent liberties with traditional recipes. I, however, think this is a good thing. It's analogous to the difference between dining out at a traditional French bistro vs. a French inspired more nouvelle cuisine type of restaurant. They each have their place, they're just different.

It's totally understandable to expect this book to have traditional Burgundian recipes and it largely doesn't. But this doesn't mean that it, and the companion Provence cookbook, are unworthy of spots on your cookbook shelf. The recipes are creative and come out consistently well, plus the book is a good read. I made the asparagus in aigrelette sauce last night and served it with seared salmon as the recipe suggested-- incredibly fast, easy, different, and delicious. You can't ask for much more in a cookbook, assuming you are not looking for 100% traditional recipes. There are are plenty of books with those, so kudos to Ms. Chase for providing us with something different and doing it very well.

Rating: 2
Summary: Nice but flawed by Americanized recipes
Comment: An amusing and well-written little book, with some very practical information about the region, the villages, the vineyards, the winemakers and their wines, and the rich specialties of the cuisine.

Be forewarned, however: if you are looking for actual classic recipes of Burgundy, you will not find them here. The author, apparantly, knows best. For example, the author thinks that the traditional escargot baked in shells with snail butter is too rich and too old-fashioned, so she offers a Italo-American creation of her own (using proscuitto!) instead of the original. She does not like coq au vin, made in the traditional fashion, either; it suffers a similar fate. The delicious (to my mind, at any rate) starter of ham and parsley in wine-flavoured aspic, Jambon en Perseille, is another traditional dish of Burgundy that the author disapproves of; it too is only offered as an unrecognizable "improved" (Americanized) creation. Without the aspic, of course. Boeuf Bourgignonne, the quintessential slow-cooked red wine stew of Burgundy, indeed, THE regional specialty, is also too rich and old-fashioned for her tastes, so she does not offer the traditional recipe at all, but rather another of her "improvements": BBQ beef kabobs with a red wine sauce.

To be scrupulously fair, there are some actual traditional recipes of Burgundy included: Gougeres, the little cheese puffs that are such a wonderful accompaniment to the wines of the region, and gingerbread, another Burgundian specialty. And some of the soups and salads are at least in the spirit of Bourgogne.

So in summary, if you are planning to visit Burgundy, this book may prove useful, but if you are seeking recipes of the classic cuisine of Burgundy, you had best look for another cookbook.

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