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Title: John Gill: Master of Rock (Climbing Classics , No 2) by Pat Master of Rock Ament, John Gill ISBN: 0-8117-2853-6 Publisher: Stackpole Books Pub. Date: August, 1998 Format: Paperback Volumes: 1 List Price(USD): $17.95 |
Average Customer Rating: 5 (2 reviews)
Rating: 5
Summary: An Engrossing Biography of a Climbing Legend
Comment: I own several of Pat Ament's books (including his soul-baring autobiography), and I've enjoyed reading them all. John Gill has become virtually the patron saint of modern bouldering, and the many intriguing photographs in this book amply show why. Simply put, Gill was an entire generation ahead of his time--both in terms of his ability and his recognition of dynamic bouldering as the cutting edge of free climbing.
Ament's writing style here is more straightforward, and less dense, than in his other writings. Rather than attempt to speak for disparate voices, as he does in his Royal Robbins biography, Ament generally lets those voices speak for themselves in this book. The result is an expository style that makes for light, enjoyable reading.
Given the fascination that Ament and Gill share with the spiritual aspects of climbing, one would almost expect Ament to devote much of his attention to Gill's metaphysical philosophies (as did Jon Krakauer in his article on Gill that was later reprinted in _Eiger Dreams_). However, by concentrating on the events of Gill's life and his wanderings among the boulder patches of the American continent, Ament has painted a vivid picture of Gill as Johnny Appleseed, putting up routes--and leaving his legacy--everywhere. I think that is what Gill will most be remembered for, even if his spirituality makes him that much more a climbing guru.
Rating: 5
Summary: Still the nucleus of American bouldering
Comment: I was first exposed to Master of Rock in the seventies with its first publication. Being at the time, a devoted climber and student of style, I spent hundreds of days in the Valley watching John Long, Ron Kauk, John Bachar, Barry Bates, Jim Bridwell, and all, polish their individual styles while applying everything and anything I could grasp from them. I could'nt walk past a door jam without cranking out the requisite finger tip pull-ups. I was 86'ed from Modesto Junior College's campus dozens of times while explaining to the authorities that "my frisbee is on the roof" . . . Imagine my surprise and joy to discover this relatively unknown man through Pat Ament's timely biography of John Gill. I was floored by this person who stayed so low-key yet with so much incredible climbing talent, in a sport not lacking in ego! For this book, Pat Ament deserves my gratitude for it is through this book that I found that element of climbing I was looking for. To me, John G! ill is still the consumate hero of motion on rock, however minimal that motion was. Yes, big walls were beckoning, Yosemite and Tuoloumne test pieces were fondling my emotion, and the smell and taste of my ruck sack permeated my VW Beetle, but to me, none of it mattered without style and art with every climb, as the end result. I grew up as a climber by studying the greatest students and teachers of style and ethics through the seventies. John Gill defined style before I called myself a climber. Thank you Patrick O. Ament for taking time from your study of climbing to write this book and allowing me to discover John Gill. I will always charish knowing who John Gill is now and who he was then.
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Title: Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America (The American Alpine Book Series) by John Sherman ISBN: 0930410629 Publisher: Amer Alpine Club Pub. Date: February, 1996 List Price(USD): $30.00 |
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Title: Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance by Eric J. Horst ISBN: 0762723130 Publisher: Falcon Pub. Date: December, 2002 List Price(USD): $16.95 |
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Title: Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories by John Sherman ISBN: 0898866057 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: August, 1999 List Price(USD): $24.95 |
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Title: How to Rock Climb: Better Bouldering by John Sherman ISBN: 1575400871 Publisher: Falcon Pub. Date: August, 1997 List Price(USD): $12.95 |
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Title: The High Lonesome: Epic Solo Climbing Stories by John Long ISBN: 156044858X Publisher: Falcon Pub. Date: November, 1999 List Price(USD): $14.95 |
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