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Title: The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest by Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston DeWalt ISBN: 0-312-96533-8 Publisher: St. Martin's Press Pub. Date: 15 July, 1998 Format: Mass Market Paperback Volumes: 1 List Price(USD): $6.99 |
Average Customer Rating: 3.93 (214 reviews)
Rating: 4
Summary: Another perspective.
Comment: This book is great for what it is...the recollections of a professional mountain climber during the ascent and subsequent rescue of commercial expeditions on Everest in 1996. It's written in a matter-of-fact style that doesn't dally so much on the personal shortcomings of the participants. When the authors do bring criticism against individuals (almost always Krakauer or Pittman), it seems misplaced. The Adventure Consultants expedition is frequently referred to as "Krakauer's" even though he was only a client. And I think that only Krakauer is referred to as a "climber-client" and not merely as a "client" implying that he had some responsibility when things went bad.
Personally, I didn't think "Into Thin Air" was that critical of Boukreev. No one can question that Boukreev's actions saved the lives of 3 others that had no hope. Thankfully the book doesn't spend much time heaping accolades on Boukreev or on placing much blame. In the end, it was individual decisions that led to the tragedies...tragedies that could have been even worse.
The response from DeWalt to Krakauer is forgettable, but the transcription of the debriefing tapes gives even more views as to what went on. The quotes from Boukreev and Lopsang, while occasionally difficult to understand, provide the most insight.
Rating: 2
Summary: Revenge in a cold climate
Comment: I enjoyed this book because it adds further knowledge to the tantalising mystery on what happened on the tragic Everest expeditions lead by Rob Hall and Scott Fisher in May '96. Personally I feel Boukreev's cause would have been better served had he chosen to remain silent or at least found a writer who was not so obviously motivated by the need to cast him in such a heroic light. Into Thin Air was for me a superior book -not only for the quality of the writing but also because Krakauer has tried to be as even-handed as possible in his description of the events surrounding the climb. His memory of events may be flawed (unsurprsing given what all the climbers went through)and perhaps some of his opinions are not supported by others but one senses that he has tried to the best of his ability to recreate the unfolding tragedy. Dewalts book on the other hand seems to be motivated largely by a perceived need to clear Boukreev's name (and as an adjunct to that to perhaps also cast a few aspersions in Jon Krakauer's direction). This to me is a serious flaw which runs through the entire work and makes Dewalt a less credible mouthpiece for Boukreev - a shame as no-one can deny what an outstanding climber he undoubtedly was. I also felt after reading this book that a lot of the blame for what went wrong in Fisher's expedition must belong with Fisher. He comes across as a charismatic figure and also a courageous and amicable person but not the best person to be making the decisions needed in planning a guided expedition for paying clients. Finally, one minor annoyance which I found with Dewalt's book is his penchant for foot-notes. The book teems with them and the information they offer often seems irrelevant or could simply have been included in the body of the text.
Rating: 4
Summary: Egos Clash At 8000 meters
Comment: I found The Climb to be a good companion to Krakauer's Into Thin Air. While I don't believe Krakauer singled out Boukreev (he cast a pretty wide net including himself), I can understand the defensive posture taken in The Climb. After all, Boukreev didn't make his living by pointing fingers. Guiding was his livelyhood.
I think that in the final analysis, Boukreev didn't leave the summit too early; everyone but Krakauer left too late. Had he known the clients were gonna dilly-dally on their way to the summit, perhaps he would've used supplemental oxygen. Since he didn't and they did, I suspect he had little choice but to go down 'early.'
I'm glad Boukreev took the time to defend himself. I found many of the details he provides fascinating. I found him fascinating. I'm sorry that he's gone, and I'm sorry he felt it necessary to co-author this book.
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Title: Left for Dead : My Journey Home from Everest by Beck Weathers ISBN: 0440237084 Publisher: Dell Pub. Date: 06 November, 2001 List Price(USD): $7.50 |
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Title: Into Thin Air : A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster by JON KRAKAUER ISBN: 0385494785 Publisher: Anchor Pub. Date: 19 October, 1999 List Price(USD): $13.00 |
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Title: High Exposure: An Enduring Passion for Everest and Unforgiving Places by David Breashears ISBN: 0684865459 Publisher: Touchstone Books Pub. Date: 17 May, 2000 List Price(USD): $15.00 |
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Title: Eiger Dreams : Ventures Among Men and Mountains by Jon Krakauer ISBN: 0385488181 Publisher: Anchor Pub. Date: 19 May, 1997 List Price(USD): $12.95 |
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Title:Everest (Large Format) ASIN: B00001U0E2 Publisher: Miramax Home Entertainment Pub. Date: 03 June, 2003 List Price(USD): $19.99 Comparison N/A, buy it from Amazon for $16.39 |
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