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Title: Climbing California's Fourteeners: The Route Guide to the Fifteen Highest Peaks by Stephen F. Porcella, Cameron M. Burns ISBN: 0-89886-555-7 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: 01 April, 1998 Format: Paperback Volumes: 1 List Price(USD): $19.95 |
Average Customer Rating: 3.56 (9 reviews)
Rating: 5
Summary: An Extraordinary Guide and Historical Source Book
Comment: Steve Porcella and Cameron Burns spent at least two summers collecting information from historical figures while putting up new
routes to all fifteen of the >14K foot peaks in California. This book is chockfull of history gathered directly from some of the early
climbers of these Sierra peaks. Many of the approaches to these peaks are arrived at by hiking (which is half the fun when in the
Sierras). As both authors are world class climbers and besides supplying detailed maps and routes traced onto photos of the peaks,
they have included many B&W photos of such points of interest as approach scenery, actual routes, historical contributors, as well
as many photos of themselves climbing the routes. Thoroughly enjoyable, this book is as interesting for the armchair climber as
for individuals wishing to expand their climbing horizons by exploring these magnificent mountains in California.
Rating: 5
Summary: A Must-Buy
Comment: Porcella and Burns do an amazing job on describing CA Fourteeners. I don't think I've ever seen a climbing guide of this caliber within the last 10 years. Very insightful historical information and great descriptions. A Must-Buy!
Rating: 1
Summary: Lacks details on routes, great historical sections
Comment: Porcella and Burn's book is really the only book about climbing California 14'ers. It's a great starting point for climbing in the state with extensive historical sections and nearly every available route up each of the 14'ers in the state. In other words, it will get you pointed in the right direction and to the trailhead to do the climb.
Unfortunately, the book is sorely lacking in route description details. The authors say to use both the pictures and descriptions of the routes to make your way up the mountain, but there are cases of descriptions without pictures. The book is most dangerous for beginning to intermediate climbers for its lack of approximate times to each location degree of difficulty, and lack of attention to detail on the "lesser" routes.
Take Mt. Tyndall's Northwest Ridge. It takes a strong hiker about 8 hours just to reach the base. The description describes the route as "easy" and up a twisting rocky trail. In fact, the trail doesn't exist and most of the climb up this ridge requires negotiating large, unstable boulders. The authors do admit the summit ridge is exposed, but do not mention there are some class 3 moves at this point. Without approximate times to the summit there is no way of knowing how long or how difficult the climb is. Furthermore, there is only a description of the climb and not a clear picture of the route. I actually told friends that climbing Mt. Illimani (6400 meters), which required some technical ice climbing, and 4 days of climbing was easier than climbing Mt. Tyndall (approximately 18 hours).
Lack of details are also evident in their poor description of the West Face route of Mt. Williamson. There is no mention of good spots to camp after reaching Shepherds pass. Williamson bowl requires fairly strenuous hiking since it is largely boulder field between several moraines. Porcella and co., describe crossing this as "entering the Williamson bowl from the north," which, judging from the topo quad and this description, makes it sound like an easy walk. The description fails to describe the route correctly, with the description sounding like you continue up the mountain when the picture shows a turn to the south. Finally the authors chose to take a picture of the climb from an angle that most climbers would not see from the southern approach.
Porcella and Burn's rating system often seems haphazard. One climb on Mt. Shasta was rated as Class 3-4, but I found this climb to be far easier than the Class 2 climbing on Mt. Tyndall.
There is a lot to cover here, but the easier routes certainly could use more description and approximate times. Yes mountaineering is dangerous, difficult, and strenuous, but lack of detail is not an excuse for the "c'est la vie" attitude Porcella and Burns use for their descriptions. In fact more description would help climbers be more prepared for the routes they choose.
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Title: The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails by R. J. Secor ISBN: 0898866251 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: 01 May, 1999 List Price(USD): $29.95 |
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Title: Climbing California's High Sierra, 2nd: The Classic Climbs on Rock and Ice by John Moynier, Claude Fiddler ISBN: 0762710853 Publisher: Falcon Pub. Date: 01 December, 2001 List Price(USD): $30.00 |
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Title: Mount Whitney: The Complete Trailhead-To-Summit Hiking Guide by Paul Richins Jr. ISBN: 0898867665 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: 01 April, 2001 List Price(USD): $14.95 |
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Title: The Mt. Shasta Book: A Guide to Hiking, Climbing, Skiing, and Exploring the Mountain and Surrounding Area by Andrew Selters, Michael Zanger ISBN: 0899972780 Publisher: Wilderness Press Pub. Date: 01 March, 2001 List Price(USD): $16.95 |
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Title: Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills by Steven M. Cox, Kris Fulsaas, Mountaineers ISBN: 0898868289 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: 01 September, 2003 List Price(USD): $26.95 |
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