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Starlight and Storm

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Title: Starlight and Storm
by Gaston Rebuffat, David Roberts, John Hunt, Wilfried Noyce
ISBN: 0-375-75506-3
Publisher: Modern Library
Pub. Date: 07 September, 1999
Format: Paperback
Volumes: 1
List Price(USD): $13.95
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Average Customer Rating: 3.83 (6 reviews)

Customer Reviews

Rating: 3
Summary: For Alps and Mountaineering Lovers
Comment: I really liked this book, but I believe one has to be enraptured of the Alps, or the history of mountain climbing, to share my enthusiasm for it. After living in Europe, and continuing to travel there frequently, I find that I am fascinated by the Alps and their history. This book is a pleasant excursion into the Alps for those interested in mountain climbing, but not a travel book, or even much of a story book, although the story is interesting. I find myself comparing old maps to new ones, and relating them to the places I have been. A bit more of a research project than light reading. This book is like watching a documentary, one that airs on public TV for specific audiences, not one on the networks for general consumption. If you are interested in the Alps, or personal stories of mountain climbing you will enjoy this book.

Rating: 4
Summary: POETRY IN MOTION...THE BROTHERHOOD OF THE ROPE
Comment: Lyrically written, the author, Gaston Rebuffat, one of the world's climbing greats, expresses such joy for mountaineering that it is infectious. No climbing enthusiast's library should be without this book. The photograph of Rebuffat which graces the cover of this book is alone worth the price of the book.

Rebuffat is positively poetic in his description of various climbs. The reader almost feels as if one were one with the mountain. A purist, the author climbed not for the glory of it, but for the sheer joy of the brotherhood of the rope. In these days, where climbing is often just a reason for a media event, the author's approach is refreshing, indeed.

Rating: 5
Summary: One of the classics
Comment: This is a great book, one of the classics. However, I do agree with the reviewer who complains that there isn't enough stuff about the actual climbing. Not only did Rebuffat do many famous ascents, but he also climbed with the greatest French climbers of his generation, most notably fellow Annapurna expedition members Louis Lachenal and Lionel Terray -- and he basically never mentions them. It is as if Gaston was too humble, and thought no one would be interested -- but we are, we are!

Anyone who enjoys this book needs to run not walk to find Lionel Terray's "Conquistadors of the Useless" which is very sadly out of print in English (although still a mainstay of French climbing literature). Not only do you get great stories of Gaston himself from Terray (including their ill-starred and hysterically funny attempt to run a farm together), but you also get all the blow by blow descriptions you could ever want of the big climbs -- the Walker, the Eiger, etc, -- as done by the legendary Lachenal-Terray rope.

Also, look out for "True Summit" by David Roberts, a new history of the Annapurna expedition which is due to be released later this Spring. And if you read French, try the two hot books in French climbing circles these days: Rebuffat's recently published biography and Louis Lachenal's memoirs ("Carnets du Vertige")

... not to mention Rebuffat's several other books and, yes, even movies!

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